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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.